There is something undeniably magical about the Black Hills of South Dakota. The land feels alive, as if it has absorbed centuries of wind, sun, and stories and now whispers them to anyone who will pause long enough to listen. Granite spires rise like sentinels over the forest, and the smell of ponderosa pine lingers in the air. Even before we entered Custer State Park, we knew we had to experience the full length of the Needles Highway.
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The Needles Highway, which is part of South Dakota Highway 87, may be short in miles, but it offers a lifetime of memories. Built in 1922 as an engineering marvel of its time, the road was designed with scenic beauty rather than convenience in mind. Its sharp curves, narrow passages, and breathtaking overlooks demand that you slow down and soak it all in. Driving it is not something you do quickly. It is something you savor.
Stretching only about 14 miles, the Needles Highway could easily be dismissed on a map as a brief detour. But anyone who has ever traveled it knows better. The road is a destination all its own. Conceived by former South Dakota Governor Peter Norbeck, the highway was part of his vision to showcase the rugged beauty of the Black Hills to the world. Against the advice of engineers who doubted it could even be built, Norbeck pushed forward, insisting that the road should enhance the scenery rather than simply cut through it. Today, it stands as a testament to his persistence and love for the land.
The highway winds through some of the most iconic formations in the Black Hills. Its name comes from the granite pillars and spires that resemble a cluster of needles thrusting upward into the sky. These dramatic formations are the result of millions of years of erosion, slowly carving away softer rock and leaving behind the hard granite towers we see today. Some spires stretch hundreds of feet above the trees, their pale stone glowing golden in the late afternoon light.
The drive begins innocently enough, with forested curves and shaded stretches where the air feels cool even in midsummer. But soon the road begins to climb, twisting back on itself in a series of sharp switchbacks that keep drivers alert. The posted speed limit is slow for good reason. Each turn reveals a surprise: a sweeping vista, a hidden meadow, or a towering wall of rock that seems to appear out of nowhere.
The road itself twists and bends like a ribbon draped across the hills. At every turn the landscape changes. One moment you are enclosed by thick forest, the next you emerge into sweeping views of granite towers that pierce the sky. It is a photographer’s dream, with light and shadow constantly shifting across the rugged landscape.
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Perhaps the most famous feature of the drive is the Needle’s Eye Tunnel. Carved directly through solid granite, the tunnel is only about eight feet four inches wide and just over eleven feet tall. Approaching it feels like arriving at a sacred threshold. Cars line up, waiting their turn to inch through the narrow opening. Larger vehicles sometimes hesitate, mirrors folded in tight, passengers leaning out windows with nervous laughter. Watching them squeeze through adds a thrill of suspense to the experience. When it is finally your turn, rolling slowly into the tunnel feels ceremonial, like being granted access to a hidden sanctuary carved by both man and nature.
On the far side, the famous Needle’s Eye rock formation waits to greet you. It is a slender spire with a hole near the top that looks strikingly like the eye of a needle. Over the years, it has become one of the most photographed landmarks in the park. Visitors gather here, climbing on nearby boulders or simply standing in awe at the sheer improbability of such a natural wonder.
Partway through the drive we pulled into a scenic turnout for lunch. The boys bounded off toward the boulders with youthful energy, scrambling up rocks and ducking between cracks like explorers in a natural playground. We unpacked simple sandwiches and fruit, but the setting transformed it into a meal we will never forget. The air was fresh and scented with pine resin. The wind carried the occasional cry of a hawk circling high above.
Aaron set up his Avata drone, zipping it through gaps in the rock spires with the agility of a bird. I launched the DJI Mini for wide aerial shots that revealed the vastness of the landscape. From above, the granite spires looked like cathedral towers reaching toward the heavens, framed by endless stretches of green forest. Watching the footage later, I realized how small we truly were in comparison to this ancient, weather-worn land. The play of light across the stone was mesmerizing, changing minute by minute as clouds drifted lazily overhead. We filmed longer than planned, completely absorbed by the shifting beauty around us.
The Needles Highway is more than just a pretty road. It is an experience that touches something deeper. Standing among formations that have endured for millions of years, you cannot help but feel small in the best possible way. It is the kind of humbling that refreshes your soul and reminds you of the power of wild places.
Along the way, there are trailheads and turnouts that invite you to linger even longer. Hikers can explore routes leading into the Cathedral Spires area, where towers of granite rise like ancient sentinels. Climbers come from around the world to test themselves on the sheer walls, their bright ropes dotting the stone like threads in a tapestry. Wildlife is never far away, either. It is common to spot mountain goats perched on impossible ledges or deer grazing in the meadows below.
For families, the drive is both thrilling and educational. Every curve offers a chance to talk about geology, history, and conservation. Our boys were captivated not just by the climbing and exploring, but by the idea that this landscape was shaped long before humans walked the earth. It gave us the perfect opportunity to remind them that wild places are precious, worth protecting, and meant to be passed down to future generations.
By the time we reached the end of the Needles Highway, we were reluctant to leave. The drive had taken longer than expected, not because of traffic or difficulty, but because we kept stopping to soak in the views. Every turnout begged us to pause, every rock formation seemed to whisper, “Stay just a little longer.”
What makes the Needles Highway unforgettable is not just its beauty, but the way it makes you feel. There is a quiet reverence that settles in as you move through the spires. The landscape has a way of reminding you of your place in the grand story of the earth. You feel small, yes, but also connected to something enduring and timeless. It is a humbling that fills rather than empties you.
That night back at our campsite at Pactola Reservoir, I sat quietly for a while, just breathing in the pine-scented air and feeling grateful. Grateful for the foresight of those who built this road a century ago, grateful for the chance to share it with my family, and grateful that such places still exist where the world slows down long enough for you to listen.
The Needles Highway is not simply a road you travel. It is an experience you carry with you, a reminder of the beauty that endures when people choose to build with respect for the land rather than against it. If you ever find yourself in the Black Hills, do not rush past it on your way to Mount Rushmore or Crazy Horse. Give yourself the gift of a slow, winding drive through one of the most magical landscapes in America.
Practical Tips for Travelers
- Best times to visit: Early morning or late afternoon offers the fewest crowds and the most beautiful light for photos.
- Navigating the highway: The Needles Highway is open seasonally, typically from April to October, and may close during winter due to snow. Large RVs and trailers may not fit through the tunnels, vehicles over eight feet wide or eleven feet tall should check restrictions before entering.
- Parking and amenities: Parking is available at several scenic turnouts and near major trailheads; arrive early during peak months, as spaces fill quickly. Restrooms can be found at main parking areas and the Sylvan Lake trailhead.
- Nearby amenities: Custer State Park offers picnic areas, visitor centers, and campgrounds. Water and food are not available along the highway, so bring what you need for the day.
If you ever find yourself in the Black Hills, don’t rush past this hidden wonder on your way to Mount Rushmore or Crazy Horse. Give yourself the gift of a slow, winding drive through one of the most magical landscapes in America.
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